Just Wait Teens Fruit Ochard

The Backyard Orchardist: A Complete Guide to Growing Fruit Trees in the Home Garden by Stella B. Otto

This book exceeded our expectations. It is recommend to anyone who wants to grow fruit for their own consumption. Other books were much too technical and always intended for commercial growers. Stella Otto's book is clear, concise, and chock-full of information.

If you have found it difficult to move beyond dreaming about a backyard orchard, this book is such a powerhouse of information that you will confidently plant a pair of fruit trees knowing that they will not drown, succumb to drought or disease, and not be defoliated by Japanese beetles. You'll even know how to prune them so that the branches grow outward rather than straight up, thus allowing in the sunlight needed to ripen your fruit.

The information is very specific. Example: The tables inform you as to which pesticides are most suitable for a given pest (cross referenced to a table of illustrations) and when to spray for them.

*The information is both usable and generic. For example: The advice on fertilizing recommends that the grower adjust the amount of fertilizer to match a target annual growth rate (length of shoot extension). That technique compensates for differences in soil type, rootstock, cultivar, etc. Basically, it teaches the grower how to pay attention to their trees.

     

Just Wait Teens Fruit Ochard

Index of Articles about Gardens

What Fruit Trees are needed for the Just Wait Teens Orchard?

The key factor is “local.” Fruit tree varieties vary tremendously in how many chill hours they require, which is the average number of hours when temperatures are below 45 degrees. If you plant a low-chill variety, it may start blooming so early in spring that the flowers and fruit are damaged from freezing. Varieties with high-chill requirements fruit poorly when grown in climates where winters are mild.

Local nurseries stay in business by selling climate- appropriate plants, and it’s worth checking around to find a nursery that is seriously interested in fruits. Some, but not all, chain stores choose varieties based only on name recognition, such as the ‘Bartlett’ pear (800 chill hours) or ‘Fuji’ apple (less than 400 chill hours). At a fruit-minded local nursery, you may find disease-resistant cultivars developed by university breeding programs in your area, as well as historical varieties that grow well locally.

Once you select your desire "local" fruit trees, what do you do next.

1.HEELING IN: If you aren't able to plant your tree as soon as you buy or receive it, you should "heel in" the newcomer. To do so, dig a trough—at a 45° angle—that's deep enough at its lower end to completely contain the tree's roots. Put the fruit-bearer-to-be in the trench, and cover its roots with soil. This step isn't necessary if your tree has a wrapped soil ball around its roots when purchased. The important thing is not to let the roots dry out!

2. PREWATERING: A full day prior to planting, thoroughly soak the area where the tree's hole is to be dug.

3. DIGGING: Measure the depth and width of the root cluster, then—separating the top soil and subsoil as you go—dig a hole that exceeds slightly those dimensions. When the pit is dug, rough up its sides with your shovel or fork to give the plant places to grip as it spreads underground. If this isn't done, the new growth may simply circle in the hole causing the plant to become rootbound.

4. VERTEBRATE PEST CONTROL: If gophers, moles, or the like are a problem in your area, you can line the pit—on its sides and bottom—with a "basket" made from chicken wire.

5. PLACING THE TREE: Build a small mound of loose topsoil in the bottom of the pit, and drape the spreading root structure over the hill. Turn the tree so that the bud union, if your tree has been grafted to a different, usually dwarf, rootstock. It will be facing toward your area's prevailing winds. If your locale is often visited by really hearty gusts—position the trunk to lean slightly into the wind.

6. FILLING THE HOLE: Then, making sure the graft, if your tree has one, will be above the ground after planting, put the rest of the topsoil in the bottom of the hole and fill the pit—to about the three-quarter mark —with subsoil. The purpose of this "earth reversal" is to place the richer topsoil where the roots can reach it right away. With that done, flood the remainder of the hole with water, wait until the liquid soaks in, and tamp the earth down well.

7. PAINTING THE TRUNK: Apply a coat of white latex interior paint, covering the trunk from the ground level, in the three-quarter-full hole, to point just below the first branch or—where appropriate—about two inches above graft. This will discourage borers and prevent premature leafing and winter sunscald.

8. FILLING: Finish placing the subsoil in the hole, and—while doing so—build the earth up to form a mound in the center, around the tree's trunk, and a shallow trench along the perimeter of the dug-up area.

9. STAKING: If your tree has been grafted to dwarf or semidwarf rootstock, you'll w ant to stake it. Its shallow roots could be ripped from the ground in a heavy wind. To do so, simply position a sturdy support stick—which, after it's driven into the ground, should stand at least as high as the tree's first limb—at a point just beyond the outer edges of the root ball. Don't, however, use a newly creosoted stake. Then fasten the tree to the support with strips of cloth or lengths of rubber hose, looping them around the plant about two-thirds of the way up its trunk.

10. ABOVEGROUND VERTEBRATE PROTECTION: Protect the tree's trunk from nibbling rabbits, hungry deer, scratching cats, playful puppies, and so forth by giving it a 24" (approximately) collar of hardware cloth, chicken wire, or the prefabricated tubing available at nurseries.

11. PRUNING: Tree culturists feel that it's not usually necessary to prune fall-planted trees, unless limbs have been damaged. In that case, the branches should be cut off below the break.

12. MULCHING: Now surround the newly planted fruit producer with a water-conserving layer of crushed rock, leaf mold, wood chips, or even freshly cut grass clippings. Spread the material no deeper than two inches) . . . and give your new friend another good soaking.

The Just Wait Teen Program

The teenagers of the Just Wait Teen™ program  are exposed to the information and research concerning their Happiness, their Temperaments, their Talents, their Attributes, their Gifts and how to maintain long term relationships. The Just Wait Teen™ program  is life enhancing program, not a substance rehabilitation program. Although its' objective is to give the teens tools and understandings to reach 21 years - substance free.

This Program was developed by the Just Wait Foundation a 501 (c)(3) nonprofit corporation to prevent drug, alcohol, and tobacco problems among teenagers. The Foundation provides one-year scholarships (two semesters) at a Community College or $1000 award to teens that completes the 4 year Just Wait Teen™ Positive Youth Development Program, obtains a GED, or graduates from high school - alcohol, tobacco, and drug free. The Just Wait Foundation has arranged to use of 80 acres to raise fruit and vegetables to finance the scholarships

We offer free training for any person or group that wants to start this program in their community.

Contact Us    Copyright 2009  - 2010 & Developed by  Just Wait Teens

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